Regardless of what you think is its origin, pav is a quintessential summer classic. Here, Laura Vincent gives it a bit of a twist.

A clafoutis is kind of a big French pancake/cake/flan hybrid. Believe me, it’s better than it sounds. Once you get the hang of a clafoutis, you could use it for pretty much any summer fruit you have hanging around. Another good one for leftovers.

Speaking of plums, I think black doris plums are the apotheosis of summer fruit. And they’re just hard enough to come by that I crave them all year round. This takes a little bit of time, but is worth it.

One for the vegans – and who doesn’t love a good chocolate mousse? To quote the excellent Anna Chinn (who keeps you supplied with news in the wee hours): "This mousse is a perfect fusion of generational stereotypes: the 1970s boozy pudding meets the Millennial interest in both veganism and smashed avocado." Originally it was a recipe in some soused 1970s cookbook somewhere, but this is the freestylin' adaptation version.

Julie Buiso bringing the fancy fruit salad, trifle adjacent, excuse to use that great bowl you have sitting on a shelf somewhere.

This feels like it would be an excellent way to top off a barbecue, bringing that little bit of smoke, but also some beautiful summer fruit.

I made this for a friend and dropped it to their house. A few hours later, I received a text saying “holy shit, the fool!”

(Yes, I did reply, “you pity it?”)